11 Basic Canon Camera Settings [and when to use them]

5. ISO – Control Your Sensor’s Light Sensitivity

Another basic Canon camera setting is ISO. ISO refers to how sensitive your camera’s sensor is to light.  The lower the ISO, the less sensitive–the higher the ISO, the more sensitive.  There’s lots to consider with ISO, but for now just know that lower ISO numbers (usually 100-400), result in better image quality, (and vice versa).  At low ISOs, there’s very little digital ‘noise’ in your photos.  

In the first low-light image of my Minion figure, I set my camera’s ISO to 100. To properly expose the scene, I adjusted the aperture (f/1.8) and shutter speed (4 seconds). Notice how crisp everything looks!

In the next photo, I shot the same subject, in the same lighting conditions. But this time I cranked up the ISO full-blast (40,000) to brighten the scene. I used abnormally high ISO to show you its main drawback: Notice how crappy — er, I mean “un-sharp” and “grainy” the shadow details look!

“Digital Noise”, (noticeable at higher ISOs and plain ugly at the highest settings), looks like pixelated, colored flecks in the shadow areas of your photos.  Choosing your ISO setting is ultimately a matter of compromise.  High ISOs (such as ISO 6400) let you use faster shutter speeds–meaning you won’t need a tripod or a flashgun in low-light scenarios.  Choose wisely.

Here’s a general “rule of thumb” to get you started with ISO settings:

Run a few tests with your Canon camera to find your highest acceptable ISO.

6. Image Quality [File Formats]

By default your basic Canon camera settings are configured for JPEGs.  JPEG image files are processed in-camera.  That means you can download them from your memory card and print them or share them online instantly. 

What’s nice about JPEGs is that they don’t take up much space on your memory cards and hard drives, and they’re processed and ready for use.  The downside is their tone and color data is relatively limited. They won’t hold up very well if you try to heavily edit them.

As you gain experience, you’ll capture photos in the ‘Raw’.  Raw files take up more space than JPEGs, but you get more flexibility in post processing. It’s easier to adjust color, exposure, and white balance than with JPEGs.  Use Raw when you intend to post process your photos with tools like Photoshop or Lightroom.  

7. Focusing modes

To ensure a sharp subject no matter what you shoot, Canon cameras have three autofocus modes, as well as manual focus.  The basic Canon camera setting mode you choose depends on your situation.  

One Shot

One Shot locks focus as soon as autofocus is achieved.  Use it for subjects that don’t move, like real estate, products, and portraits. 

AI Servo

AI Servo continuously maintains focus on a moving subject as long as you keep the shutter button pressed halfway, and the active (red) focus point stays on your subject.  

AI Focus

This focus mode blends One Shot and AI Servo.  In this mode, your camera starts out in One Shot but automatically switches to AI Servo if your subject starts moving.  It’s not perfect though, and many photographers prefer to not use it. 

Manual focus

This is just what it sounds like.  Switch to manual focus via the AF-MF switch on your lens. Focus on your subject by rotating the focus ring on the lens until your subject looks sharp through the viewfinder or on the LCD screen.  This option is great for landscape and macro photography. 

8. Metering modes

Metering modes let you change the way your camera reads the light in your scene, which then affects overall exposure.  In most situations, Evaluative metering works the best.  So what do the other modes do?

Partial and Spot Metering

Spot metering takes a light reading from roughly 2-4% of the frame, and Partial reads a larger, more forgiving area at around 10%. 

Partial and Spot metering are both great when your subject is lit from behind, or when you want to expose for a specific part of the subject.  

Center-weighted average

Center-weighted metering reads the light mostly around the center of the frame, and less so towards the edges.  It’s useful when using neutral density (ND) filters, which can cause Evaluative metering to overexpose. 

Evaluative

This ‘intelligent’ metering mode reads light from all parts of the frame, and calculates an average exposure based on the light and dark areas of the scene, with a bias towards the selected AF point(s).   Evaluative metering helps you get a correct exposure in most situations.  

9. Pop-up Flash Basics

You can’t beat a speedlight or flashgun for versatility, but if your camera has a pop-up flash it can be a great way to add light to subjects. 

It’s a basic Canon camera setting that’s simple to use. Just press the flash button and take a picture.  If your flash is too strong or too weak, use the flash exposure compensation setting in the main menu to adjust the power. 

10. Composition

Composition is simply the way elements in your shot are arranged. 

In a well composed picture, the elements feel balanced, and the viewer is drawn into the frame.  

The “rule of thirds” is one of the simplest and most useful composition techniques to master.  By following this guideline, you ensure your photos are visually balanced.  All the elements in your scene work together in harmony.

Simply imagine your frame with two horizontal and two vertical lines like a tic-tac-toe.  Position your subject on one of the four intersection points on the grid for a good, solid composition.  To make things easier, most Canon cameras let you overlay a grid on your LCD screen and viewfinder. 

If you’d like to learn more about how to compose a photo, I wrote an article for you called, “15 Photography Composition Techniques“.  

11. Focal length

This basic Canon camera setting isn’t really a camera setting per se, but it is important. Cameras are often sold as kits with a camera body and basic zoom lens.  Kit lenses are normally 18-55mm, and useful for a wide range of subjects.  “Focal length” refers to how wide the field of view is.  A smaller number (18mm) gives you a wider view, and a larger number (55mm) creates a narrower, more “zoomed in” view. 

18mm is ideal for landscapes.  35mm is good for a wide range of subjects.  55mm is great for portraits as well as getting closer to subjects that are farther away.  Focal length also affects the depth of field–background sharpness decreases as the focal length increases.  

Practice

Now that you understand these basic settings, let’s practice dialing them in.

Settings for Landscapes

Use a tripod if you’ve got one.  For the best light, shoot just after sunrise or just before sunset.  First, switch your camera to Aperture Priority (Av) mode, with the aperture set to f/16 and ISO at 100.  Next, zoom your lens out to 18mm for the widest possible view, and switch it to manual focus. 

Now, turn on Live View (the LCD screen) and compose your image.  Once your image is composed, zoom in to a point that’s roughly one-third of the distance into the scene, and manually focus on that point.  Finally, for a sharp shot, activate the self-timer and press the shutter button.

Settings for Portraits

First, find an area with an uncluttered background that extends a few meters behind your subject.  Next, switch your camera to Aperture Priority (Av) mode with the aperture set to f/5.6 and ISO at 100 or 400 depending on how bright your scene is.  Zoom your lens in to 55mm. 

Next, set the focus mode to Single Shot and make sure just a single AF point is active.  Finally, look through your viewfinder, and adjust the AF point’s position so it’s over your subject’s closest eye.  You’re now ready to begin shooting.

Settings for Panning Shots

First, set your lens to 35mm or 55mm, depending on your distance from the subject.  Next, switch your camera to Shutter Priority (Tv) mode and set the shutter speed based on the table below.  Now, set the ISO to 100 or 400, depending on how bright your scene is, and use AI Servo AF (continuous AF) with the central focus points active. 

As your subject approaches, track them and half-press the shutter button.  Lastly, as they pass, keep tracking them by twisting on your hips and press the shutter button all the way while smoothly continuing to track them.  

Conclusion

So how did you do? I’d love to see your test shots! Post ’em to your favorite social media pages, and post a comment below with links to your shots!

Remember–reading and knowing this stuff is only a starting point. Practicing these concepts is how you’ll really start to grow and learn. Got questions? Drop a comment, or shoot me an email!